French Roquefort is one of the original blue cheeses. All true Roquefort cheese originates in the area of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon, a town that sits above the limestone caves in which the cheese is made. The caves are unusual because fissures in the walls provide for natural air circulation, yet create a temperature-controlled environment that is ideal for cheese making. They also maintain the damp, cool atmosphere necessary for the growth of the unique mold, called Penicillium roqueforti, that is responsible for the distinctive flavor of French Roquefort. (This is the same culture used to make English Stilton.)

In the production of Roquefort, a traditional cheese-making process is followed with great consistency and care. Sheep’s milk is shipped to the cheese-making facilities in 40 liter containers, rather than tanker trucks, to avoid breaking up the milk-fat on the way. The milk is tested and filtered, but neither pasteurized nor homogenized. It is then prepared with rennet for two hours, and then the whey is drained off. The curds are hand-ladled into draining molds, and the mold culture is added. The “finished” cheeses are stored for a week and turned frequently. At that point, they are taken to the caves of Cambalou, where they are salted and pierced to encourage the growth of the mold. Then they are kept in the caves for three months, or even longer, for ripening.